Tuesday, April 22, 2008
S WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. SW SWELL 5 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Didn't wrap up work 'til late and got in the water about 4:30...
After driving around for over an hour looking for places to surf...
First spot, was an absolute lake, flatter than a pancake...
Enough south in the swell that it couldn't wrap around T-Head...
Checked a north cove, but it was a high tide mess...
There was a movie production truck parked in the lot...
Readying for a big surf vampire movie shoot tomorrow...
Eyed a couple peaks coming round the bends of highway one...
Even pulled off and hiked out to take a closer look...
Surfable, but breaking against the cliff and big backwash...
Passed on another cove to check a spot further south...
Here I saw my first surfer, struggling to stay in position...
And chasing lefts that were a little too quick for him...
The wind was also kicking up and I opted for some protection...
Hiking down in the rain, I thought it might be good...
And it was pretty solid, chest to head high thumpers...
Rights and lefts that had you looking out over the back...
To determine if a quick exit was in order or not...
Since the paddle out was not altogether pleasant...
Caught a handful of waves, glassy and pocked by rain.
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1 comments:
Winter's back..... with a vengance!
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