Sunday, May 11, 2008

Crusty


NW WIND 15 KT. GUSTS TO 20 KT IN THE MORNING. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
I actually don't really care what other people ride, wear or do...as long as it doesn't adversly affect me of course. But as I parked my car the other day to go surfing, I felt a bit understickered...I only had a parks pass in the corner of my windshield. On Friday, in the water, I was perplexed by the people that had chosen to surf shortboards in dribbling knee high surf and by the few longboarders that combed, rewaxed, stretched and then secured their leashes in antipation of the DOS (Double Over Shin) waves, and the one guy who charged the waves... running out to the lineup. Literally, when he stopped running he was almost outside...when he concluded his session, about a half hour later...he ran back in, highstepping through the shallows.
I guess people feel the need to take surfing to the next level...whatever that is. I can admire a powerful cutback or snap off the top...but the wave needs to invite it. Too many of these moves are forced onto little dribbly waves that can't support these acts...as a result, the attempt generally looks inept and inappropriate. I guess the only way you can boost airs or learn other tricks like them is to repetitively fail in multiple attempts, I don't really know. I never practiced maneuvers while surfing, I just surfed. If I saw a walling section that needed to be raced, I raced it. If a lip threw and I was in the right spot, I tucked into it. When a shoulder fattened, I'd swing the board around back into the wave.
Surfing is alot of different things to different people I suppose. But for me, surfing is about the waves themselves...what the wave provides, what the wave dictates to the rider...not the opposite. Currently, for me...that requires a longer board, with a single fin and preferably, no leash...lining it up, finding the trim spot and gliding down the line.

9 comments:

J said...

heck yeah!

ridgeback said...

Bend your knees. Turn when you need to. Ditch the leash when you can.Yeah

Anonymous said...

got humble? nope, not you, youre too cool. chill out and ditch this stupid blog site.

Anonymous said...

actually, other anonymous, what doc described -- the idea that the wave dictates rather than the surfer -- is humility. and why would you leave a comment suggesting he ditch the blog? if you don't like it, just don't read it.

Anonymous said...

Hey Doc,

Long time reader, first time responding. Love the blog, especially the shipwreck and Oregon history pieces. Keep up the good work! I need something to read about local surf on the days when I'm not getting out in the water.

Also love "crusty" old guys in the lineup (I'm getting there myself, though do usually ride something less than 7 ft), and all are welcome to their opinions, right?

I'm sure that's why you have a blog to post them here, and don't let them interfere with everyone's fun in the water, regardless of style.

Mark

Anonymous said...

the surf mags tell the kids to practice. practice, practice. But when waves of consequence hit, most of the moves aren't recommended. But they're great for small wave contests.

I just surf so I can tell chicks I surf.

Rockaway Condos said...

I know how you do doc. I always have a good time surfing with you and it was cool to trade off the last time we were in the line up.
Peace.

Gaz said...

Sometimes I feel like an old dog barking......

Anonymous said...

"Sometimes I feel like an old dog barking......"

Classic!