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Sunday, June 29, 2008
S WIND 5 TO 10 KT...VEERING TO SW IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
It was a hundred and fifty degrees in the valley...
[...it was only a hundred...]
So the bros piled in the Woody for a trip to the beach...
[...it was a Suburu, with the wife and kids...]
We went like 90 & got there in minutes...
[...cruise control at 60, 2 hour drive...]
On the beach we did brodies and tossed rooster tails of sand...
[...we parked in a state park lot with tourists...]
We charged over the dunes with our boards to find offshore perfection...
[...I lugged cooler, tent, board, wetsuits and more to the beach...]
We charged the perfect, hollow, lined up, DOH barrels for hours...
[...I paddled out into shifty, crossed up, backing off head high waves...]
Our wave count musta been in the hundreds...
[...I caught 2 good waves before the incoming tide flooded out the sandbar...]
In the tube, on the tip, off the lip, gaffs, sick airs...you name it, we did it...
[...take offs were sketchy, bumpy faces required careful stolid positioning...]
Exiting the water hot chicks and admiring grommets watched our every move...
[...my wife never looked up from her book as I came in...]
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1 comments:
Oh I'll have to edit my surf report for the weekend to reflect the truthiness....... it'll take awhile!
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