UPDATED FORECAST 9-13
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First northwest swell of the early season is peaking today along the CA
Coast - biggest north of SF at round 7-8ft @14-15 seconds. Swell direction
is 3...
3 days ago
Showing posts with label surf. Show all posts
Showing posts with label surf. Show all posts
Monday, June 30, 2008
S WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING SW 10 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. SW SWELL 4 TO 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS... SUBSIDING TO 3 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Had to steal Gaz' word...
After checking the cam...
Damn...
Looks Surfy.
Sunday, June 29, 2008
S WIND 5 TO 10 KT...VEERING TO SW IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
It was a hundred and fifty degrees in the valley...
[...it was only a hundred...]
So the bros piled in the Woody for a trip to the beach...
[...it was a Suburu, with the wife and kids...]
We went like 90 & got there in minutes...
[...cruise control at 60, 2 hour drive...]
On the beach we did brodies and tossed rooster tails of sand...
[...we parked in a state park lot with tourists...]
We charged over the dunes with our boards to find offshore perfection...
[...I lugged cooler, tent, board, wetsuits and more to the beach...]
We charged the perfect, hollow, lined up, DOH barrels for hours...
[...I paddled out into shifty, crossed up, backing off head high waves...]
Our wave count musta been in the hundreds...
[...I caught 2 good waves before the incoming tide flooded out the sandbar...]
In the tube, on the tip, off the lip, gaffs, sick airs...you name it, we did it...
[...take offs were sketchy, bumpy faces required careful stolid positioning...]
Exiting the water hot chicks and admiring grommets watched our every move...
[...my wife never looked up from her book as I came in...]
Friday, June 20, 2008
NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT...VEERING TO N AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIND WAVES 1 FT. SW SWELL 3 FT AT 15 SECONDS.
That I paddle a surfboard at least...
Gaz, over at RWIC snapped this last Tuesday...
Day 2 in my 5 day surf marathon...
Fun reeling lefts all morning long.
Friday, May 30, 2008
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 3 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
So, on a rough count...
Traversed 9 capes...
Rounded 5 bays...
And topped many rivers...
Especially if you count creeks...
Passed by at least 2 coves...
Surfed in one of them...
Fished in another...
The surf was meh...
So I drank...
During fishing.
Thursday, January 11, 2007
N WIND 15 TO 20 KT...BECOMING NE.
WIND WAVES 4 FT.
NW SWELL 12 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
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Snowing at the beach...the pic looks like a wave in Maine or Nova Scotia, not Oregon! It also looks surfable...and cold in and out of the water.
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I was reading a message in which someone referred to "phony hippocrates"...meaning hypocrits...which spawned the following...feel free to offer improvements:
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The Surfocratic Oath
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I swear by Neptune the Father and Poseidon, and Mermaids, and Sirens, and any other sea gods and goddesses (major or minor) I may have forgotten to mention, that, according to my ability and balance, I will keep this Oath and keep stoked.
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To reckon those who assisted me in this Art, Skill, Passion or whatever surfing is, as equally dear to me as my parents and kin, to share my secret spots with them, and to talk story as required; to look upon their offspring in the same footing as my own brothers, and to teach them this joyfully futile activity, if they shall wish to master it, without fee or expectation; and that by paddle, popup, and wipeout, I will impart knowledge of the Art to my own children, and those of my teachers, and to lonely disciples bound by stoke and oath according to the law of surfing, but to none others.
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I will follow that system of regimen which, according to my ability and sack, I consider for the benefit of grommets, and abstain from whatever is kookish and lame. I will give no sage advice to strangers if asked, nor offer such local counsel as might offend; and in like manner I will not give to the true seeker discouragement to the art.
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With flow and with glide and in trim I will pass my life and practice into Art. I will not cut off those under the lip, but will leave this to be done by aggro practitioners of such work... snakes.
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Into whatever tubes I may enter, I will go into them for the benefit of the soul, and will abstain from voluntary acts of hopping and waggling; and, further, from the abuse and cursing of seeming uncooperative waves or swells, and wonton damage or destruction of beaches and headlands.
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Whatever, in connection with my oceanic service, or not in connection with it, I see or hear or feel, in the life and act of surfing, which ought not to be spoken of abroad, I will not divulge, as reckoning that all such should be kept secret.
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While I continue to keep this Oath unviolated, may it be granted to me to enjoy the ride and the practice of the art, respected by few men, in all times. But should I trespass and violate this Oath, may the reverse be my lot.
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