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Monday, June 09, 2008
W WIND 20 TO 30 KTS. COMBINED SEAS 9 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 8 SECONDS.
Surfed some truly slopptacular waves this afternoon...
Watched for awhile, efforting to talk myself out of paddling out...
Then, the accursed sea, drew me from the warmth of my car...
Into a frothing maelstrom that is (on calmer days) a break...
Caught a handful of largely unsatisfying weird waveular bumps...
All whilst battling to stay sat up upon the polyurethane spear...
Due to massive gusting winds hurrying north to the low pressure...
The additional packing of my belly with salmon and ale at lunch...
Did not help, if anything, it made breathing diffcult...
And continually threatened to launch violently from my gullet...
But the waves were conquered and no chumming in the end...
The hot shower afterwards was nice.
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2 comments:
Maybe you had the beer goggles on.
Shoulda been there.......
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