Friday, July 18, 2008
N WIND 10 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
I don't know who photoshopped the sock monkey into a wipeout...But Thank You.
Surfed some soft windswell this afternoon...
The predicted 5 to 7 foot swell sorta showed up..
Sorta not...
The period was really short...
So there wasn't much to the waves...
However there were a few fun sets that came through...
Every 20 minutes or so...
It was a definite longboard day...
And all my longboards are in drydock...
I coulda pulled 'em and surfed 'em...
But I didn't...
Why waste all that prime drying time...
On what was really Kinda Crappy waves?
I took out the quad...
Which pretty much discouraged and humbled me last go 'round...
Gaz said it was 'cause I was hung over...
I was...
But I also surfed it terribly...
Today's waves were much weaker than that session...
But I surfed it much better...
I think?
It was tough to make the crumbly sections...
And I thought I was in for another downer surf...
But then an outside set rolled through...
Which I miraculously was not out of position for...
Provided a niced lined up left wall that was workable...
A few more of those came through in the course of the day...
And I exited the water feeling better about the board...
And my slowly regenerating short board surfing skills.
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