Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

N WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING NW 15 TO 20 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. A FEW GUSTS UP TO 25 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT...BUILDING TO 4 FT IN THE AFTERNOON. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 7 SECONDS.

He was a funny kind of surfer...

In the summer...

He longed for powerful winter surf...

In the winter...

He longed for soft longboard waves...

When he was going right...

He wondered if the lefts were better...

When he was going left...

He longed for lined up right walls...

When the sun was out...

He wished for foggy, drizzly lineups...

When the rain pelted down...

He sighed recalling warm, sunny days...

But the one thing he didn't miss...

Those wetsuit shredding wipeouts...

Not much risk of those today.