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Wednesday, August 13, 2008
YES 
NON WIND 15 TO 20 KT...WITH A FEW GUSTS TO 25 KT IN THE EVENING. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Paddled out Monday to some fun waist high lefts...
Picked off a left that lined up nicely...
Swung it around...
Cross stepped up the board...
Foot slipped out...
Splash...
Swim...
Retrieved board...
Paddled back out...
Repeat performance...
I figured it was 'cause I'd left the booties on the beach...
And wasn't used to surfing barefooted...
Every wave required careful precision to avoid a spill...
The board was super slippery...
I'd go to grab it once a wave had closed out...
And it would squirt from my grasp...
I reasoned I needed more wax...
So headed in to get some...
I told my friend the wax I'd found on the beach...
Was super slippery...
Almost like soap...
He picked it up...
Looked at it...
Smelled it...
"This is soap, dude"...
He said, laughing...
And it was...
So I laid a real wax layer on top of it...
It was still kinda slippery...
But much better...
I do not advise a base coat of soap though.
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6 comments:
I wish I could've been there for this one. Were you riding the Slip Frye?
Ha! Slip Frye...yes.
Still laughing....
I repaired a board for a guy once, who proceeded to paddle out at a pretty risky spot, sans wax. He made it outside, and tried to straddle the board, which proceeded to squirt out from under him like a giant snotball. He finally got it in a bear hub, and proceed to catch the rip out to the point, and almost to the clear blue sea. At this point rescue came in the form of a lovely lady soifa. I'll never let him live it down, much like the friend who was soundly beaten down by a one armed man. Long but fun story.
One armed man beat downs are never too long...
What's a "soifa"?
My sad, sad attempt at Brooklynese.
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