Friday, August 15, 2008

Bombas


N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
The post could have been titled "Not Paying Attention"...
I went with the time tested plan of "Just Go"...
Last look at buoys indicated a 5 foot swell...
So, I wasn't really ready for an 8 foot swell...
I had to watch, look where to paddle out, and stretch...
I almost felt like fall!
Paddled out with a guy I have surfed with several times...
Still don't know his name...
Shortboarder guy him, longboarder guy me...
Never the twain shall meet?
Anyway, it was solid...
With a capital "S"...
Had to massage my balls back down into their sack on a couple occassions...
Not huge big, but bigger than comfortable on a 10' 6" board...
Lots of early ins, down the line, tempting tuck'ds to get fuck'd on...
I dodged the vast majority...
But then, I don't know...
Overconfident or cocky...
After about 8 head to head and a half screamers...
Went for the ill advised floater reentry...
Works fine on a sub 7 foot board...
But not so much on a 2 board equivalent...
The closeout/wipeout resulted in a blow to the knee...
That ended a session about to end anyway...
Tomorrow, hoping for more...
If...
No...
Despite the sore knee.

1 comments:

nm said...

(south of RE) ...completely socked in today....and ugly....if you could actually see it.