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Tuesday, August 26, 2008
SW WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
So I invented a new move today...
Well, new to me...
I'm sure it's been done before...
Anyhow, paddled out about 10am...
Ran into a friend...
Traded waves with him for a couple hours...
Wasn't too big...
Chest high, tops...
Took off on a left...
It walled up nicely after the drop...
I stepped forward...
And watched the nose dip...
I stepped back quickly...
But not quick enough...
Watching the nose bury...
Expecting a launch...
And requisite swim...
I proned onto the board...
Which forced the nose deeper...
Expecting to pop out the back...
Only to pop out onto the face...
I stood back up nonchalantly...
And finished the ride...
I have no plans to add this move...
To my small repertoire.
I always thought Prince Namor...
AKA The Sub-Mariner...
Was super cool...
Why was he always so pissed off though?
Was he a local or something?
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1 comments:
He was pissed because all he had for a costume was a designer speedo. How "super" is that?
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