The Rider by Naomi Shihab Nye
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"A boy told me
if he roller-skated fast enough
his loneliness couldn't catch up to him,
the best reason I ever heard
for trying to be a champion.
What ...
1 week ago


1 comments:
Nice. Similar lines up here in WA Saturday and Sunday, too. Funny thing: same swell height and period as yours (4 feet at 9), but it made for consistent, regularly overhead take-offs and head high walls up and down the beach. I would have guessed 4 at 12 or 13. Go figure.
Big crowd too.
David
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