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Wednesday, December 10, 2008
NW WIND 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 11 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
Nothin' like alotta board in front of you...
I surf anything from 6'8" to 10' 6"...
Yeah, I should go shorter...
And longer fits the equation too...
But bustin' out a big ass board...
In solid surf is as satisfying an experience...
As any shortbord maneuver out there...
Only my cent and a half...
Because as time goes on...
My bank seems to be a little less flush...
Gonna keep keeping on tho...
Never give up...
Keep the fish...
Manage the spear.
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