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Tuesday, February 03, 2009
SE WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 9 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
It wasn't nearly as clean as the wave in the pic but...
Got in a dead low tide to find some smooth lumps...
It was peaky and shifty but plenty of lined up walls too...
Just overhead with the occasional bomb out the back...
I paddled way outside in hopes of picking one off...
But the wait in between was too long and I'd drift in...
Only to get caught scratching for the outside again...
Sun was out, wind was down, swell was building...
All in all, a good day to go surfing.
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