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Saturday, June 06, 2009
S WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Been getting a little lately...
Little on a lot of level...
Little sessions, little waves...
Water temp jumped last Wednesday...
If the air temp had been a bit warmer...
You could have trunked it...
On a longboard, outta the water...
But there was also alot of filth...
I don't know where it came from...
But sticks & logs & muck was all over...
And naturally, the best peak was there...
Opted for a wave down the beach...
Later, paddled back out...
And things had cleaned up...
Cleaned up on a lot of levels...
The nasty filth was gone...
The sun had come out...
And the waves lined up...
Surfed (leashless, yes) with 2 friends...
It was canveyor belt-like...
Paddle, spin, surf, repeat...
For over 2 hours, no waiting.
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2 comments:
Cool running into you again
hey,
I have been reading your blog for years.
Can you add me to your link list? I would be siked!
livefreenumber5.blogspot.com
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