Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Surf Report #498

E WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BACKING TO NW IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 8 SECONDS.

The east winds blow...
And I have to head east...
Not have to have to...
But want to have to...
Hiking in the Cascades...
Just a 2 night backpack...
But enough to clear the mind...
I leave you with a report...
As good as it gets...
From the ringmaster of stoke...

surf report # 498

even on the most perfect glassy days, sheep like trios of volcom clad boy herds group together in less than perfect take-off zones...

this works out well for the seekers, the finders, the loners and the rest of us who surf to surf, not to be watched, or to watch...

up and down the north coast today you couldn't go wrong unless you didn't surf.

more shark stories and gore at jetty last night into the wee hours of dusk whilst silvery soft and altogether amazingly fast rights walled up again and again and again until nothing in the world could distract you from driving the single fin magic carpet ride down the most perfect faces on the planet...

not even the boy with the 5 gallon bucket of blood and chum... ha!!!

then into the morning, another 4 hours, lost in a haystack, the most oily smooth water, inconsequential crowds, a-frames built to last, to withstand the most fickle sandbars, to keep you coming back for more and more.

RINCON IS WHERE YOU FIND IT

~tip





3 comments:

Jamie Watson said...

Cool photo!

Dub said...

Doubt yer missing much Doc, my phones not ringing off the hook. Backpacking sounds really good. Doing something simular this weekend. Besides there are only 3 good months to backpack when you seem to surf all year long. Enjoy it when you can, diversity is the beauty of Oregon.

dyana said...

Good report.....

Every one should read this ....
thanks for sharin with us......

________________
DyanaDevis

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