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Tuesday, September 01, 2009

Catch A Rail

Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:14 PM

NW WIND 5 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS.

Got a late surf in today...
Glassy and peaky...
During peeks in the gaps...
Suited up watching...
A chest high peak unfurl...
With nobody on it...
Then again and again...
Finished my beer...
And scrambled out...
First wave a right...
Backside, fun, soft...
Quickly back out...
Here comes that peak...
Scratch over...
Feels bottom and jumps...
Steep little drop...
Into a nice walled up left...
Uh Oh! Better get out...
Flip the unleashed board...
Up and over the closing section...
But the flip was too vert...
And the rail nailed me...
Hard in the calf...
Felt like a charley horse...
Kinda hard to walk now...
But still surfed a couple hours...
I didn't have an ice pack...
And that calf needed the cold...
Lotsa fun waves...
Kinda sloppy initially...
But cleaned up as the tide dropped.

 

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3 comments:

Thom said...

Sounded like fun despite the knock!

12:47 AM  
Foul Pete said...

Surf sober!

2:21 PM  
turtle said...

Be thankful you didn't get "Mike Doyled" with that rail. Then again he recovered and then some.

6:36 AM  

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