Sunday, June 06, 2010

Sat...urday

W WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS.

But yesterday's forecast read...
E WIND 5 TO 10. WIND WAVES 1 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS...
Not that big a difference...
But enough to to prompt me...
To be in the water by 8:30...
Surfed for 5 hours...
In sun and stiff offshores...
On head high hollow lefts...
With the occassional right for balance...
Big arrowhead peaks would show...
With square corners...
Opening up and sectioning...
Into reeling walls on the inside bar...
Not quite big enough for proper tubes...
But round enough to tuck into briefly here and there...
After a outside in left that ended in waist deep water...
Sunburnt face, aching shoulders and assorted pains...
Frome getting bounced and thrashed a couple times...
I called it a day...
Sat...isfied...
Sat...iated...
Sat...urated...
Sat...urday.

2 comments:

turtle said...

water logged, nice

ludlow said...

fuckin disaster