Friday, October 08, 2010

First Blood

S WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 35 KT. WIND WAVES 7 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Well, Wednesday's surf was fun...
From beginning to end...
The middle part sucked a little bit...
Overhead sets, sunny and glassy...
Picked off fun left on the 7'0" quad...
Made the wave, little off the top as it closed out...
cut back into the wave for the paddle back out...
Doink! "Ahhh...that's nothing", I thought...
Hand to forehead though and lots of blood...
Paddled in, had someone take a look...
They confirmed it looked pretty shallow...
Still took about an hour to stop the bleeding...
Paddled back out on the 9'4" Phillips single...
Bad quad! You only get to cut me once per session...
Caught a bunch more fun ones unscathed...
Oh well, scars are cool.

3 comments:

gaz said...

Ha!Ha!

twin said...

ouch!

NASTY said...

Stay black and die