Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

N WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. NW SWELL 3 FT AT 8 SECONDS.

After a deep, deep Central Willamette Valley mode morning meeting on Tuesday I scrambled for the Central Oregon Coast in hopes of finding some sunshine to go along with the forecast 3 foot swell. I wasn't overly optimistic due to the 25 knot gusts, the 5 foot wind swell and the 3 foot swell that had dropped to 1 foot.

Then my low hopes were dashed upon arrival at Newport as I sighted the whitecaps frothing on the horizon. Cursory checks of north wind protected headlands up the coast yielded sub-miniature dribblers that offered little chance of propulsion despite proper preparation of bringing a 10' 6" single fin log.

Spot after spot checked with windswept bays and beach breaks continued to crush spirits as darkened coastal taverns beckoned and looked increasingly tempting. At Tillamook, I bagged and headed east on Highway 6 resigned to my valley fate. As the dairy farm stench wisped about me I rebelled...hung an illegal u-turn and resumed my northward trek up Highway 1.

At the last ditch spot I pondered just hiking in with survival supplies [beer] and hydrating in the sun. But, being sensible, I lugged the heavy longboard down the trail knowing failure to do so meant surrender on my part and I could not stomach it.

Upon arrival on the sand, I was greeted by an empty lineup...empty of surfers and empty of waves. After a few moments, as I battled the steady wind to trudge forward, I saw a mysto peak break about 20 feet from shore in about 10 inches of water...solid shin to knee high and perfect.

Making it to 3rd creek I deposited my Kings of Beer in the frigid waters and watched the north end. Sure enough, a peak showed and a right reeled off in deeper water that looked small but surfable. I suited up and paddled out. The waves were tiny but perfect little offshore peelers with a fun little noseride section.

After about an hour and a half of fun in the sun and surf by my lonesome, the switch was thrown and the little peaks turned off. I paddled south in hopes that a new wave would materialize but no such luck. Once I entered the wind tunnel unprotected 2nd creek area, I opted to head in and consume my beers on the beach.

All in all, coulda been better but it was almost much, much worse.

NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 7 SECONDS.

There's a reason I don't bring my wife to the beach much...
She doesn't surf...
And she doesn't have the same concept of time...
Especially surf time...
I once made the mistake of leaving her with a newborn...
For a mere four hours...
She seemed mad when I came in and it was still good...
Still get reminded of that one...
I tell her that I'll only be out for a bit...
And I mean it...
It's just that time is relative...
Especially if the waves are good.

N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 2 FT AT 6 SECONDS.

Often go astray...
Yesterday I saw a bump...
This infernal 2 foot swell...
Supposedly was jumping to 4...
Of course it didn't happen...
But that's another story...
Anyway, I knew it was gonna be hot...
So I packed up last night...
And I knew it was gonna be small...
So I packed a really long board...
And I knew it might be too small...
So I packed a fishing pole & tackle...
Figured I'd at least get wet...
Surf if possible and fish off the board if not...
Got up early, coffee'd up...
Get in the car and start 'er up...
Squealing noises & smoke out the vents...
Quick inspection of the engine...
I know how to open the hood...
But that is the extent of my mechanical skills...
Call my mechanic, he's in early...
"Bring it in I'll take a look"...
I start it up, the squealing & smoke is gone...
But no power steering, just turn wrasslin'...
Get it there, high hopes of a quick fix...
No such luck...
Stuck deep in the valley...
Sweaty and pissed and no car...
No surfy for me til Monday...
At least the swell's supposed to bump by then.

SW WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

It was blowing east when I checked this morning...
The swell looked like a window of fun potential...
I had hoped for a long hike into a spot I haven't surfed in a bit...
But indicators and other commitments killed that dream...
Still, shot the shit and critiqued those out scratching...
And rhapsodized about a swell with a little less north...
And finally headed in that direction...
Stopping along the way to ascertain that yes...
It was not worth paddling out into...
Finally found an empty wedging right...
That lasted a couple hours...
And gave me a run for my money...
Air drops, pig dogs and over the falls...
All an a mere head high wave...
Well, maybe a little over head...
Then the dropping tide ruined the fun...
And I drifted over to the circus zone...
Spring break. I'm on vacation myself...
So who am I to complain?
Big enough to keep the plastic surf schoolers inside...
But sandbars that allow for a double reform...
Kept an even balance...
Between fun and frustration.

Sometimes it's just the sitting and waiting that makes the session...the undulation lulls you into a state of meditation...a sudden darkness on the horizon or splash of foam on distant rocks rouses you to action...moving to that one spot that will provide the reason for the wait.

Local Reports:
...headed out today to watch the storm hit. Sunshine, rain and heavy hail all within 2 hours. Watched a couple people out under the bridge in Newport. It was pretty choppy everywhere else.

Straigntened up nicely toward late afternoon and high tide. Surfing in the hail is like skiing on corn snow. The hail knocks down the chop and floats. You can feel it sliding under the board as you are skimming along - very cool.