Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In

NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT...DROPPING TO W WIND 10 TO 15 KT IN THE EVENING.
WIND WAVES 3 TO 4 FT.
NW SWELL 9 TO 10 FT AT 8 TO 9 SECONDS.

I was only watching from the beach on Tuesday...but this is what I imagined it would have looked like to the handful that paddled out in the gale force winds that afternoon.

Also, in reference to the OB post from a couple days back, a reader posted links to a great article on surfing OB..."Playing Doc's Games"...from New Yorker magazine in 1992...pretty great read...here's Part 2.