Saturday, September 22, 2007

Cranking2


NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 13 SECONDS...BUILDING TO NW 10 FT AT 13 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.
Cranking squared...
Both the surf and the surfer in this pic...
Somewhere in Australia if I recall...
If I could even sack up to ride a wave this big anymore...
I probably wouldn't be cranking a bottom turn just beyond the lip's impact point...
More likely trying to stay as far ahead of the curtain as I could...

3 comments:

writer said...

eel ya Doc, was a day when I would have charged that wave...
But we aint immortal, are we?
I have more aches and pains from surfing 4 foot slop than I did from going over the falls at Backdoor back in the day.
Well, any day on this side of the dirt is good...

writer said...

Yeah, 'eel' ya...whatever that means!

pushingtide said...

Sweet pic ol' Doc.

Looks like the left that Safe to Sea wrote about. Rippin'!