Monday, October 01, 2007

Formula


SW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 11 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Generally, when the swell size in feet...
Exceeds the period in seconds...
Wave conditions can suffer...
Throw in local crossed up windswell...
Kinda onshore to boot...
2 feet is hopeful thinking...
And what you have is a mess...
Although, you never know...
Until you check.
The formula is...
swell > period + wind (sp) ~ dir (sw) = less than perfect
Not very scientific...
But I'm working on it.

8 comments:

tO'skookin said...

ouch - on contrair mon frair, or whatever, but more seconds is more better. "ground swell"

Anonymous said...

Know before you go. But, you won't know till you go. Whaddaya gonna do?

tO'skookin said...

Wait, strike that, reverse it... good point, I saw dislexic....

Dub said...

WTF happend to Fall?!?!?

Dude where's my link?

Doc said...

I been slacking hard...

Sorry Dub...

It will be done.

Dub said...

Ah like the new organization. Speaking of your links came across a copy of "Grasping Wastrels vs. Beaches Forever Inc." at a book store in Seaside over the weekend. A book and author I became familiar with, though your link. Great read so far. Interesting yet hilarious insight on Oregon beach policy. Also was stoked on the "let it pour" site.

stiv said...

Yeah, September has been pretty messy. Just got back from a southern OR road trip and got 45 knot south winds and raining sideways in PO. The N. side of a cape there was blowing offshore that day and it looked magical. Only problem was that it would have been impossible to get a board of the roof and down the hill to the break without it being ripped from my hand and taken out to sea. A loc tried and we ran to save his board. Barely got it.

Next day, went North to another spot that has some south protection and it was clean and BIG. Very fun, but no channel and a dead, headless humpback whale and a dead sea lion on the beach was most disgusting. Almost vomitted when the wind would shift enough to throw the putresence outside. Met more nice folks on the trip than nice wave though.

ed said...

Looks like I'll hold off heading north. The Oregon surf "formula" seems to be one of determining junky surf, something I try to avoid.