NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 8 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
The Four Horsemen represent my four waves today...
Ola Uno, solid overhead...
Late take off, too steep, purl, over the end of the nose, serious drubbing...
Ola Dos, in betweener, chest high...
Get in early, heading down the line, double up, launched, re-drubbed...
Ola Tres, another OH'er...
Swing the nose around to face a massive close out, drubbed and dragged...
Ola Cuatro y finito, muy largo...
Went left, looked right, right looked better, went right, clipped by lip...
Drubbed, spun and drug...
Game over...Adios...
It looked intermittently good from shore...
The reality was much different.
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3 comments:
Cinco = Cerveza
Buena Surerte!
Sounds a lot like my session last weekend.
Looks like potential today. I'm about to go and find out.
shred
Dub-
yeah, but ya felt good afterwards, right?
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