Friday, May 02, 2008

All Good

SW WIND 5 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

It really all just came together today...
Supposed to be windy...
Not windy.
8 foot swell on Wednesday was messy...
Today, not messy.
Friday often brings weekend crowds...
Surfed solo all morning.

Got up early...
Paddled out to an empty lineup...
Surfed head high peaks...
For two hours by myself...
A combination of rights and lefts...
The rights a bit soft...
The lefts the occassional screamer...
The paddle out was forgiving...
With channels offering easy access...
Wave after wave after wave after wave...
After three hours of paddling...
Got a little lackadaisical...
And got schooled...
Too casual on a late backside drop...
Later got impatient...
And took off on the first wave of the set...
Only to get caught inside...
Tired and watching the biggest and best...
Waves of the day reel and explode on the bar...
While I did fruitless battle to gain access back outside...
In any case, a 4 hour session was reaped...
There were days when that was nothing...
But they seem fewer and farther between these days.

2 comments:

nm said...

Nice!

Niegà said...

Congratulations! Nothing better than to prove the forecast wrong!

Niegà