Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Indecision


S WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT. WIND WAVES 6 FT. NW SWELL 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS. RAIN.
Yeah...
Last time I only brought the 6'8"...
Needed the 9'6"...
So much for 8' forecast...
Chest high & soft...
Not this time...
Hmmm...
Grab the Hynson Downrailer...
In case I need it...
And yeah...
The 6'8" too...
In case I need it...
It could actually be a 10' swell...
But if it's a 10' swell...
Wouldn't the 8'2"...
Be a better call?
Better put it in there...
Wish I had a 7'6"...
That'd be good...
And it'd fit...
I'll keep my eyes peeled...
Then again 6' wind waves...
Don't exactly inspire confidence.

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Balance

SW WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

It was blowing east when I checked this morning...
The swell looked like a window of fun potential...
I had hoped for a long hike into a spot I haven't surfed in a bit...
But indicators and other commitments killed that dream...
Still, shot the shit and critiqued those out scratching...
And rhapsodized about a swell with a little less north...
And finally headed in that direction...
Stopping along the way to ascertain that yes...
It was not worth paddling out into...
Finally found an empty wedging right...
That lasted a couple hours...
And gave me a run for my money...
Air drops, pig dogs and over the falls...
All an a mere head high wave...
Well, maybe a little over head...
Then the dropping tide ruined the fun...
And I drifted over to the circus zone...
Spring break. I'm on vacation myself...
So who am I to complain?
Big enough to keep the plastic surf schoolers inside...
But sandbars that allow for a double reform...
Kept an even balance...
Between fun and frustration.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Staying The Course

W WIND 15 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Gonna stay with the theme...
Big scary sharks...
And women...
How could I go wrong?

Friday, March 20, 2009

Sharks, That Is


W WIND 15 KT WITH GUSTS NEAR 20 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. NW SWELL 7 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Due to lack of actual surfing...
I have to post gratuitous images...
Of things I fear...
And yet am attracted to.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Access


S WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. W SWELL 11 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
Or lack thereof...
No surf...
And all work...
Make Doc...
A dull boy.

Saturday, March 07, 2009

Triptych


NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 13 SECONDS.

Good surf day today...
Lotsa Paddles...
Lotsa Waves...
Only a couple wipeouts...
Checked one spot...
15 heads on 1 peak...
Opted for spot 2...
Only 2 others out...
And many peaks...
Surfed warbly high tide...
Soft waves all the way to the sand...
To early evening low tide...
Little more juice...
Alot more lined up...
Sunburned face...
Cold beers...
Surfing...
Boardshorts on the beach...
Surf In Oregon.

Thursday, March 05, 2009

No Fool


NW WIND 20 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. NW 9FT AT 9 SECONDS.
I actually got a call this morning...
"Hey! Surf's Up! It looks pretty good."
I thanked them for the info and hung up...
I would add that they don't surf...
I called another friend that does...
"How's it looking?" I asked...
"Terrible" was the answer.

Wednesday, March 04, 2009

March Forth


W WIND 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Some early morning goodness...
Missed again by yours truly.