N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 5 FT AT 11 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.
It was alot bigger yesterday...
Well overhead on the sets...
A lot of water moving around...
It was pretty messy at high tide...
And as the tide dropped...
The wind started to wail...
But then it laid off...
And it seemed surfable...
My first scratch to the outside...
Left me way outside...
Courtesy of a major rip...
Paddled back in for wave one...
A backside over the falls thrashing...
It got better from there...
But I got intermittently...
Bored, then terrorized...
Scratching for outside bombs...
Every 20-30 minutes...
So I moved inside...
And surfed the inbetweeners...
Which were still big...
Wedgy and dumping...
Alot of duck diving was involved...
Which is a funny thing...
Usually you get better with practice...
But with alot of duck diving...
I think I get careless...
The first 50 or so were perfect...
But as the duck dive fest went on...
I became more lackadaisical in my efforts...
And paid the price on a couple occassions.
.jpg)
1 comments:
I can relate, radly.
Post a Comment