Blogcrowds Blogger Template

Thursday, August 30, 2007

Redux

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:55 AM


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FOOT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Fiddling around with Photoshop and a tablet...
Headed out of town today...
Central Oregon lakes...
No surf but...
No work too!

 

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

So Smooth

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 11:10 AM

~ photo by Stoner


N WIND 5 TO 10 KT WITH GUSTS TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.


Skip Frye stylin' at the Ranch then...
And Skip in the shaping bay now...
He's still as stoked as he was at 20...
I recently had the good fortune...
To surf with, and speak to, Gerry Lopez...
Talked about this and that, surfing mostly...
At some point Skip's name came up...
"So smooth" was Gerry's comment.

 

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Patient

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:46 PM


N WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 3 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
I've been patient...
But must admit...
As much as I like...
Sunny days...
And 3 foot surf...
I am ready for..
FALL!

 

Monday, August 27, 2007

Search For Surf

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 2:32 PM


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT...RISING TO 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT...BUILDING TO 4 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Looking for some surf tomorrow before the wind starts nuking out of the north...
Even then, there's always a certain SW facing cove that blows offshore with north winds...

 

Sunday, August 26, 2007

Tandem

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:13 AM


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
I have to admit I've never surfed tandem before...
And Oregon probably isn't the place to start...
But this makes it look not half bad...
Although, tandem interuptus seems probable...
Not to mention, you'd need a long point break...
In order to complete the...errrr...ride.

 

Saturday, August 25, 2007

Out Of Water

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:38 AM


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BACKING TO W BY THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Funny how time and space shapes experience...
Yesterday, in the water...I was unsatisfied...
Both with wave quality and my own surfing...
Today, out of the water...the recollection is positive...
Remembering distinct rides and moments...
Paddling over cresting wind groomed peaks...
Dropping into a surprise left wall that opened up...
Sitting and waiting for a shadowed line on the horizon.

 

Friday, August 24, 2007

The Paddler

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:00 PM


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT AFTER MIDNIGHT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Surfed today in some less than ideal waves...
Made the mistake of leaving the longboard home...
After making the mistake of bringing it Wednesday...
There were a few fun ones to be had...
But they were soft and backing off...
A little extra glide through the flats would have helped...
I surfed a peak all by myself for the most part...
With a pack of 15 plus sitting down a ways...
Their peak may have been better...
But I didn't feel like dealing with the crowd...
There was a trio of hooting boogie boarders on the inside...
But they were a minor auditory irritant...
Then suddenly a 5 pak of soft toppers paddled out...
It was like I was some kind of kook magnet...
Board noses a foot up in the air pushing water...
Legs spreadeagled and thrashing dragging water...
Lots of hooting, hollering and rad this and rad that...
They quickly drifted out of position...
Then the paddler came by, you all know the guy...
He paddles up and down the beach...
Always looking, spinning and trying for every ripple...
He was fine when he was a 100 yards down the beach...
But suddenly he saw me catch a wave...
And he was there, paddling up and sitting just off me...
I'm generally a pretty nice guy...
And these waves were certainly nothing worth jockeying for...
But I couldn't resist, I had to say something...
"Y'know, this peak is just as shitty as the one you just left..."
"If you're gonna stay here, I'll go over there..."
I said it with a smile, but I meant it...
He didn't smile back, but he did paddle away...
The paddler comes and the paddler goes.

 

Thursday, August 23, 2007

Sneaky

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 8:07 AM


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT... RISING TO 15 TO 20 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT... BUILDING TO 4 FT IN THE AFTERNOON. W SWELL 6 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Sneaky little right...
Trying to hide behind the house...
Looking pretty smooth now...
But the wind's gonna blow...
Forecast looks pretty fun...
Six foot swell...
All week long.

 

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Hit and Run

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:16 PM


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 10 SECONDS.

Had a hit and run session this afternoon...
Scrambled outta work at noon...
Pulled in in time to see Ding pulling out...
Went and borrowed a leash...
Because finally waves with some size...
Meant I'd be doing some swimming otherwise...
Paddled out to some pretty speedy waves...
Caught a few short ones and paid the price...
Of unavoidable sets on the head...
Finally lucked into a screaming left...
That left me so surprised I made the section...
I promptly fell off my board...
Got thumped a time or two...
For riding a 9' 6" single fin...
Where a 6' 10" would do...
But then the boys on chips...
Were taking their lumps too...
So...
I did all right...
But like I said...
Hit and Run...
Had to hit the road at 3...
To get back to the valley...
'Cause there was a 7 o'clock show...
Wilco...
We'll Alright.

 

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Summer Crowds

5 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 12:44 PM


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Lately it seems everyone's doing it...

 

Monday, August 20, 2007

Hammonds Reef 1960

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:34 AM


S WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 8 SECONDS.

Just a classic shot...
Reeling offshores...
Lone surfer...
Knee paddling his way...
To perfection

 

Sunday, August 19, 2007

Weekender

4 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 5:47 PM


S WIND 10 KT...BECOMING SE AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIND WAVES 1 TO 2 FT. SW SWELL 4 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
Surfed solo south of this vicinity for the last couple days. Lots of little knee to waist high peelers that ended in shin deep shallows. Kind of bumpy and messy Saturday morning but found a rarely surfed sandbar and surfed it. Then drank some beer at the Lighthouse Brewfest in LC, then more at the Bistro in PC. Proceeded to get bumpy and messy myself later in the evening. A drizzly Sunday morning gave way to sun. Surfed the same sandbar, this time the little peaks were clean and glassy; the water almost oily-looking it was so calm. Briefly washed away the previous evening's fog and then quickly revived it with more malt beverages whilst lunching at the Sportsman. All in all; 3 bars, 2 days, 1 beach, 0 worries.

 

Thursday, August 16, 2007

Look! Look! Nope...

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 2:06 PM


S WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. SW SWELL 5 FT AT 7 SECONDS.

...of more interest is the supposed formation of low pressure near the dateline and south of the Aleutians pushing east. No swell producing fetch expected immediately, but it is to be pushing east in to the Gulf by Friday with 30 kt west winds building aimed well at and a bit west of Oregon. Possible windswell developing in the days beyond. ~stormsurf

I was looking at the North Coast forecast early in the week and Sunday was calling for 9 foot swell...I was admittedly skeptical...and also a bit disappointed...not by the 9 foot swell...but by the 30 knot winds and 5 foot chop (it comes today) that was also predicted...

But, everything's back to normal again for Sunday...3 foot swell, 10 to 15 knot winds and 2 foot chop...and while there may be a little bump in the swell...I'm guessing the 9'6" will see yet another wet weekend while the shorter boards continue to gather dust in the garage.

 

Mysterious Disappearance

5 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:56 AM

SW WIND 5 KT...BECOMING S 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. SW SWELL 3 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

California of the early sixties…
Was the golden age of surfing…
Grannis and Ball shot surf pics…
But surfed & worked too…
Stoner was the man…
Staff shooter at Surf Guide in 64…
Joined Severson’s Surfer mag…
Surf popularity exploded…
With a ½ grand a month…
Gas money & piles of film…
Stoner delivered iconic images…
Of surfing and it’s Heroes…
Cover shot master…
Surf trip chronicler…
Hanging with the coolest of the cool…
60’s psychedelia & surf…
Stoner caught in the vortex…
Mega doses of pure L…
Strange trips in strange directions…
Staring at walls in silence…
Babbling bible passages…
Snapping still perfect pics…
The eye was there…
But the mind was going…
Diagnosed with schizophrenia…
Inner voices, hallucination and paranoia…
Padded cells & straight jackets…
Electro-shock therapy…
The cure worse than the disease…
Stoner was never the same…
Surf & shots had been his life…
Now just a job…
The pure soul was gone…
He shot though the next decade…
An occasional flash of old…
But nowhere near the old magic…
Declared missing in 1977…
Not seen since…
The mysterious disappearance…
Of Ron Stoner.

 

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Land of the Sea

4 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:06 AM

W WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. NW SWELL 3 FT AT 8 SECONDS.

Surfed some fun waist high waves yesterday with friends...traded waves in rare all day glass...rights and lefts...fun peaks coming from seemingly different angles...occasional chest high ones surprising you...fast little lefts and walling rights that were a little more solid...leashless goodness that held up all through high tide.

Also, glided into the shallows right over the top of a big sea bass or grouper...I didn't react quickly enough and failed to leap from my board immediately and grapple with this denizen of the deep...or of the shallows in this instance.

I lost my rash guard at the Kiwanda contest and neglected to replace it, so after a couple hours I was starting to suffer some unpleasant chafing...just as I was contemplating heading in a familiar maroon van pulled up next to our cars and I ended up logging a couple more hours...the later discomfort and pain was well worth the fun...sometimes you pay to play...but no more!

 

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Lotus Layback

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 11:49 AM


N WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. NW SWELL 3 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Chasing the Lotus...haven't seen it yet, but understand that it uses lost reels from films like Pacific Vibrations, Big Wednesday, and The Forgotten Island of Santosha...so I may take a look.

 

Monday, August 13, 2007

Big Shark

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 2:30 PM


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 3 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
It's summertime in Oregon...so hearing things like "Dory guy's spotted 5 GW's North of the cape on up yesterday."...seems to somehow be as out of place as sharks attacking you through the roof of your house.

 

Sunday, August 12, 2007

Luchadore

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 11:17 AM


S WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 3 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Tarsurf as the OG Surf Luchadore...

 

Saturday, August 11, 2007

3 Foot

4 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:27 AM



~photos by unknown, symons & jet

NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 3 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Here's 3 photos...
Of 3 surfers...
On 3 footers...
At 3 spots...
On 3 days...
By 3 shooters...

 

Friday, August 10, 2007

Calmness to Prevail

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 2:55 PM


NW WIND 10 KT. GUSTS UP TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
I got nothing...so here's some North Pacific Overview excerpts from Stormsurf:
Thursday's jetstream for the North Pacific indicates no energy of interest...
Over the next 72 hours things to remain weak...
Nothing of interest is expected to result at the oceans surface...
Overall upper wind speeds are to be light...
High pressure centered well north of Hawaii but too distant to have any impact...
No winds of interest anywhere in the North Pacific...
Maybe enough for bare minimal windswell generation...
Other than that, calmness to prevail.

 

Thursday, August 09, 2007

Small

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 6:03 PM


NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. NW SWELL 3 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
It was small today...
Not terribly small...
But small nonetheless.
Last night was clear...
And the sky full of stars...
With a bonfire raging.
Walked over a dune...
To find a pack of paddlers...
Trading waves.
In search of solitude...
And lonlier waves...
I headed north.
Parked my car...
Packed my pack...
And went down an empty beach.
Where I found...
Not to my surprise...
Empty waves.
Empty waves...
On an empty beach...
But small nonetheless.

 

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

The Glenmorag

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:56 AM


NW WIND 5 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 7 SECONDS.

Wreck of the British Ship Glenmorag.
Portland, Oregon, March 20: The British ship Glenmorag, Captain Archibald Currie, from Callao, in ballast, for Portland, went ashore about 4 p.m. yesterday on the coast of Washington seven miles above Ilwaco in a dense fog. She sailed from Shields, August 15th, and arrived at Callao December 9th.
The first intimation of the wreck reached Ocean Park about 5 o'clock when one of the crew arrived at Mrs. Taylor's seeking assistance for his injured companions. The news spread to Nahcotta like wildfire and soon after a large number of residents made their way to the scene of the wreck, where they found the captain and crew, of whom two were killed and four injured.
The ship struck at about high water and now lies port side to the shore. From Captain Currie it is learned that the first indications of danger was the cry of "Breaker on port bow!" from the man on the lookout. He immediately attempted to wear around and almost succeeded when she struck and swung around, broadside on, with her head to the southward. The after port and starboard boats were cleared away and lowered, both reaching the water about the same time. The mate, who was in the lee boat, attempted to pull out to sea, but was forced to let her drift in shore. The boat which had been lowered on the weather side in rounding the stern was caught by a tremendous sea and dashed up under the ship's counter crushing the occupants in a cruel manner and smashing the boat considerably, the air-tight tanks with which she was provided alone keeping her afloat.
The captain next set about lowering the forward boat, and reached the shore in safety an hour later. On landing he discovered that two men had been killed and four injured.
The Glenmorag is an iron, full-rigged ship of 1567 tons register, and was built on the Clyde, Scotland, in 1876. She is owned by R. & C. Allan, who were also the owners of the Strathblane, which was wrecked near the same spot four years ago this month. Captain Currie had been in command of her the past nine years.
The Glenmorag was the last of the clipper ships built for the Allan Line, and was owned by R.S. and C.A. Allan of Glasgow. She was launched at Glasgow in 1876, was 255 feet long, 38 feet beam, and 22 feet deep, and of 1567 tons.
~from the San Francisco Chronicle, March 3, 1896.

 

Tuesday, August 07, 2007

Everyone Loves Waves

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 1:12 PM


SW WIND 5 TO 10 KT WITH GUSTS TO 15 KT...VEERING TO W IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Wave tanks...Ocean in a Bottle...or the real thing.
People will sit and stare at the sea...
For surfers...there's even more to it...
On a beach, you'll mind surf the waves...
On a lake, you sometimes wish you were 8 inches tall...
With perfect pin-tailed 9" gun, of course!
Watch out for the trout though...

 

Monday, August 06, 2007

Authentic Surfing Lifestyle

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 1:08 PM

~photo within the photo by holdown...manipulation by doc

W WIND 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
Warning:
"If you don't surf, don't start."
Unless you are willing to sacrifice productivity for lolling around in the sun, swilling beer, talking story, cracking wise, grilling steaks at sunset and all the other trappings of the ASL...

 

Sunday, August 05, 2007

Some Art, Some Surf

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:18 PM



NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT...EASING TO 10 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. GUSTS UP TO 20 KT OUTER WATERS IN THE EVENING. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 6 FT AT 7 SECONDS.


The Cape Kiwanda Longboard Contest was pretty fun...hung out on the beach doing some wood carving and watching friends surf their heats and got about 4 surfs in between Friday and Saturday night.

The weather was perfect Saturday, the wind was slightly offshore and the waves actually were far better than I expected both size and condition wise.

A couple friends MC'd the contest and did a great job...color commentary and comedy mixed in nicely...only one gaffe to speak of when the statement was made "Yknow? The wind's not fucking it up too bad!"...or something to that effect...I was hanging with Gaz when it was said and we both looked at each other in mild disbelief and surprise.

Gaz took a couple shots of a little wood carving I had with me and the pic below is him headed out for his 1st heat...you can see some decent waves coming through...sorry about the quality, it was with a phone.

 

Friday, August 03, 2007

Cape K Contest

4 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 8:19 AM


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
Heading down for the revived Cape K LB contest on the central coast...never been a big contest guy, but a friend of mine is helping organize it and asked me to help register people. The last surf contest I was at was the OP Pro in Huntington Beach in the 80's when Curren beat Occy. I remember it being crowded, you couldn't see anything and the waves were crappy and tiny. Although this contest will surely be less crowded and you'll probably be able to see...the crappy and tiny part may well hold up...4 foot at 7 seconds isn't great, and the period is dropping for Saturday...but there may be a few waves.

 

Thursday, August 02, 2007

Nugget

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 4:30 PM

~photo by Jonathan Hoover

N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. NW SWELL 6 FT AT 6 SECONDS.
Certainly not everwhere...
But more often than not...
Surf in Oregon can require...
Lengthy paddles to reach the waves...
Summertime definitely is the time...
To find little waist high beachbreaks...
You can basically walk out to...

 

Wednesday, August 01, 2007

5 Summer Stories

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 8:31 AM


N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
As I posted this poster I realized the quintessential California/Hawaii summer (or winter for that matter) has little in common with Oregon Summer...
I may need to explore an alternate, and more appropriate, Oregon version of the 5 Summer Stories...
Something with wetsuits, hooded sweatshirts, wind, rain & the rest...

 

Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)