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Monday, September 29, 2008

Sweet Peeler

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 8:40 AM

E WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Small, yeah...
But looking clean...
And East wind to boot...
Hoping it holds...
For a log session...
Tomorrow.

 

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Sunday, September 28, 2008

Break Out The Longboards

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:59 AM


NE WIND 10 TO 15 KT. SOME GUSTS TO 20 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
I tried putting them away...
But 4 & 5 foot swells...
With short periods...
Keep showing up.

 

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Thursday, September 25, 2008

A Fine Mess

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 4:39 PM


SW WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT...VEERING W TO NW AND DECREASING TO 5 TO 10 KT OVERNIGHT. WIND WAVES 3 FT EARLY...SUBSIDING TO 1 TO 2 FT OVERNIGHT. W SWELL 12 FT AT 11SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 9 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
It wasn't huge...
But it was a mess...
I saw one person getting waves...
On my drive from the Central...
To the North coast...
I even brought my pole...
Thinking I'd plunk for a couple...
But waves over the T-mook jetty...
Made me opt out...
Reconned a couple other spots...
Nothing I haven't looked at before though...
Hoping tomorrow settles down...
Cleans up...
And throws!

 

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

The Wind, The Waves & The Rain

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:46 AM


The Wind - S WIND 5 TO 10 KT...RISING TO 25 TO 30 KT. GUSTS TO 35 KT WITH FRONTAL PASSAGE.
The Waves - WIND WAVES 1 FOOT...BUILDING TO 6 FT.
More Waves - W SWELL 3 FT AT 10 SECONDS... BUILDING TO 7 FT IN THE AFTERNOON.
The Rain - CHANCE OF RAIN BEFORE SUNRISE...THEN CHANCE OF RAIN IN THE MORNING. RAIN IN THE AFTERNOON.
The forecast was too good to be true...
Especially as far as the rain goes...
But then the wind was pretty good too...
The pic is poached from the CB Surf blog...
Further incidental proof that...
I go to the beach at least...
That's me walking up...
After surfing waist high waves...
On too small a board...
Thought about racing down this AM...
But I'll just let the storm front...
Come to me.
Thursday & Friday do look promising...
Hoping the 12 foot at 12 seconds...
Dropping to nine foot...
Will prove surfable...
And not a complete mess.

 

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Solutions

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 5:39 PM


NE WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 TO 3 FT. NW SWELL 3 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Irritated...
That on a sunny fall day...
When I could see my feet even...
I was all jittery...
Every movement...
Caught my eye...
That and water in my ear...
That will not clear out...
Driving me crazy...
Oh, and waist high waves...
On a shortboard...
Got a few...
A couple walls that lined up...
But mostly one and done...
One drop...
One off the top...
One shake of the head...
Now it's building...
Along with the wind...
13 foot forecast...
Paired with 30 knot winds...
Maybe it'll be...
A perfect storm.

 

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Fishing

6 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 5:51 PM


W WIND 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Not catching...
Looking for some Chinook...
Only to find 2 of the above...
Cabezon Scorpaenichthys marmoratus...
And a couple crab...
Minus a lost crabpot...
Mystery theater...
Today was a bust...
Shoulda gone surfing...
Looked pretty glassy early.

 

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Perspective

6 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 11:26 AM


W WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
I like to keep things in perspective...

 

Friday, September 19, 2008

Glow 'n' Flow

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:59 PM


W WIND 5 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Cam shots like this make me sigh...
Stuck on dry land.
On a sour, bitter, cynical note...
Surfing yesterday at a well-travelled North coast spot...
Witnessed the odd blown take off or three...
As I paddled past one perpetrator post-plop...
He quickly qualified...
"I'm trying to get used to this new board"...
I must admit he had the full surfer look...
But then, as he sat up, back arched...
He shook his head and tipped over...
I paddled away.

 

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Someone Talked

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 6:02 PM


S WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Actually, I didn't lose my board...
But I did have to dodge...
Not necessarily kooks...
But plenty of beginners...
Felt like summer.

 

Monday, September 15, 2008

5 Up

5 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:03 PM


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 1 TO 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
Yeah, so...there was no wind...
And it was more like 4 foot at 7 seconds...
But there was enough...
Enough even for a noseride...
A somewhat rare occurence...
Given the preponderance of beach breaks...
But a little inside wall lined up...
And I blundered clumsily to the nose...
I shoulda risked 10...
But settled for 5...
Then celebrated with 2...
Beers...
It was all I brought.


 

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Still Waiting

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:52 PM


N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
Intermittent ground swell keep me guessing...
One day feels like fall...
The next day, summer's here to stay...
Surfed a building swell yesterday...
Almost left the log in the car...
But it wasn't quite big enough to warrant...
Now a steady diet of 4 foot at 7 seconds...
Seems to lie on the horizon...
I'm still waiting...
And I'll be ready.

 

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Surf Bathing - Failure

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 4:57 PM


N WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 6 FT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
An example.

 

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

...and Windy

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:51 PM


N WIND 15 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. NW SWELL 7 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
So I've been spending time drinking...
And fishing...
And wishing there was better surf...
Actually, I think there are waves...
But you need to be early...
And in the right place...
At the right time...
But current forecasts predict...
25 knot winds...
Until Sunday...
So pretty much screwed...
For the rest of the week...
Guess I'll go anyway.

 

Monday, September 08, 2008

Offshores

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:04 PM


N WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT EARLY. WIND WAVES 5 FT. NW SWELL 8 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
This isn't a shot of today's surf...
But it does bring back some memories...
As I was headed to the coast today...
I was musing that we don't get the hard offshores...
So prevalent as "Santa Anas" in So Cal...
And so common in the fall months...
Many Septembers & Octobers are deeply imprinted...
In my memory banks...
So I was nicely surprised to find some nice offshores...
Texturing and holding up lefts today...
Early I surfed some small waist high peelers...
And later surfed a beach dishing head high bombs...
Paddling over the top of a few...
I felt the familiar liquid needles raining down...
Swinging the board around into the wind...
Resulted in few near complete stalls...
In the face of the howling wind...

 

Thursday, September 04, 2008

Big Ol' Square Fin

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:49 PM


N WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Picked up an old log the other day...
Patched up a few corners...
Opted not to tackle the delam yet...
Waxed her up and paddled out today...
50-50 rails?
This thing has 500-500 rails...
Thick, thick, thick...
It handled about like I expected...
Hard to turn...
A bit wobbly...
But once you line it up...
It gets down the line alright...
Definitely not an everyday choice...
But it was a nice variation.

 

Wednesday, September 03, 2008

Great News

4 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:56 AM


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
Actually, the bro reports have indicated tinier waves than expected...
However, I heard there were some fun ones over the weekend...
Six foot at ten seconds tomorrow could yield the goods I hope.

 

Tuesday, September 02, 2008

Repairs

0 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 12:16 PM


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
I used to have this booklet back in the pre-interweb days...
And used it to good effect on many, many occasions...
Came home a day early from camping in the Cascades...
Rain in the valley, snow level dropping & coooold...
So patched and repaired several boards...
That have been out of the water a bit...
Still a couple bigger delam jobs to go though...
But nice to have more watertight boards...
Than dinged up, leaky ones...
Now I just need to go surfing.

 

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