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Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Saltwater Buddha

4 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 4:14 PM


N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. NW SWELL 7 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Jaimal Yogis contacted me a few months ago about reviewing his book...
I was somewhat remiss in actually reading his book...
Jaimal contacted me again a couple weeks ago...
This time about mentioning his upcoming Oregon readings...
I was somewhat remiss in actually mentioning his readings...
But now I am no longer remiss...
Jaimal is in Portland promoting his first novel...
Saltwater Buddha on:
Thursday, July 02 at 7:30pm...
At Powell’s Books on Hawthorne
On SE Hawthorne Blvd. (near 37th Street)
I did finally read Saltwater Buddha and I enjoyed it...
It was a quick read...
I finished it in 3 days or so...
I had my own ideas about what it would take to be a Buddha Surf Master...
But having no actually grounding in Zen practice...
I always imaginged a Saltwater Buddha...
As a blend between Caine from Kung Fu...
Bodhi from Point Break...
And Gerry Lopez doing yoga on a beach in Indo...
Instead, who knew?
It was Jaimal Yogis...
Straight outta Sacramento!
Here's my review...
The book is eminently readable...
It's a coming of age story...
And deals with the inner struggles...
Of finding one's way...
Usually in the context of surfing...
It has sections we have all encountered as surfers...
And it has passages that are unique...
But the overall message is a positive one...
And it is an excellent addition to the esoterica...
That is surf literature.

 

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Saturday, June 27, 2009

10...9...8...7...6

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 4:28 PM


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Not my quiver...
Simply an illustration...
Upcoming forecast...
As it gets smaller...
I'd go bigger...
Although Monday PM...
Looks like the only go day...
And I'm thinking quad.
SUN NIGHT. N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. W SWELL 10 FT.
6'8"ish Twinzer or Quad...
MON. N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. NW SWELL 9 FT.
7'+ Thruster...
MON NIGHT. N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. NW SWELL 8 FT.
9'0" Banquet board from my sponsor...
TUE. N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. NW SWELL 7 FT.
9'6" Hynson Downrailer...
TUE NIGHT. N WIND 20 TO 25 KT. NW SWELL 6 FT.
10'6" Frye Eagle...

 

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Thursday, June 25, 2009

Lost Boy Cove

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 8:17 PM

~photos by Monner (1930) & Richen (2009)

N WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 11 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
My friend sent me some pics he snapped during the recent -3 tide...
He was finally able to access the beach at Lost Boy Cove...
The legendary cove is north of Oceanside...
And just south of Short Beach near Cape Meares...
The cove gains its name from an obvious source...
I can't say whether it is based in fact...
Or if it was merely a tale used to frighten children into staying well clear of the cove during a rising tide...
Regardless, the rarity of being able to access this cave...
Which is usually under about 12 to 20 feet of water...
Is pretty rare and possibly a once in a lifetime occurence.

 

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Sunday, June 21, 2009

Things That Make You Feel Good

5 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:54 PM


NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
There were quite a few things today...
Free pass to surf on the weekend...
Decent uncrowded surf at the Epicenter...
Coining the saying that...
If you take the enter out of Epicenter...
You get Epic...
Drinking cold beers after surf with Sooloo...
Even though he ganked the skeg on the Dano I loaned him...
Getting home to a tasty dinner...
That I didn't even get asked to to do dishes after...
And then a Father's Day drawing/card...
From my 12 year old daughter...
Pretty good surfer & likeness...
I'm a lucky Dad today...
Hope you other Padres got some too!

 

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Thursday, June 18, 2009

Sell Out

6 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:43 PM


W WIND 5 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 13 SECONDS.
I haven't caught too much flak for hawking the TSJ...
But I'll admit I had my reservations initially...
I mean, how can I sully the pureness of my surf blog experience...
With blatant advertisements promoting magazine sales?
Then I saw that I was only a nickel short of 3 bucks...
I'm all in baby...
Bring it on...
Diet pills, Viagra, whatever it takes...
Hell, I'm only a dollar shy of a 6 pak of High Life!

 

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Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Cutting Edge Shit

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:46 PM

~photo by Craig

NW WIND 5 TO 10 KTS. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. SW SWELL 4 FT AT 16 SECONDS.
Don't know how many have seen 'em...
Don't know if many have braved 'em...
But if Shamu showed up at my my home break?
Might be time for beers on the beach...
Oswald aka Short Sands...
Judging from the waves...
Afternoon flood?

 

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Monday, June 15, 2009

TSJ

13 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 11:52 PM


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. SW SWELL 3 FT AT 14 SECONDS.
I've been approached before...
By people wanting me to add banners...
To the Surf in Oregon blog...
Usually it was for vitamins...
Or diet pills...
Or some other non-surfy type deal...
So when the Journal asked...
I said yes...
a) I have been a long-time subscriber...
(although I let it lapse)...
b) I agree with their basic premise...
c) I get paid if people subscribe through SIO...
d) The Surfer's Journal is cool.

 

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Thursday, June 11, 2009

Rut

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 5:08 PM


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. SW SWELL 3 FT AT 16 SECONDS.

Feeling in a rut...
Downerville USA...
It's funny too...
After about the funnest session...
In a pretty long time on Monday...
It seems like ages...
And at least 4 more days...
Until I can get wet again...
At least there's a 5 foot swell on the way...
Supposedly.

 

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Saturday, June 06, 2009

Clean Up

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 3:29 PM


S WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
Been getting a little lately...
Little on a lot of level...
Little sessions, little waves...
Water temp jumped last Wednesday...
If the air temp had been a bit warmer...
You could have trunked it...
On a longboard, outta the water...
But there was also alot of filth...
I don't know where it came from...
But sticks & logs & muck was all over...
And naturally, the best peak was there...
Opted for a wave down the beach...
Later, paddled back out...
And things had cleaned up...
Cleaned up on a lot of levels...
The nasty filth was gone...
The sun had come out...
And the waves lined up...
Surfed (leashless, yes) with 2 friends...
It was canveyor belt-like...
Paddle, spin, surf, repeat...
For over 2 hours, no waiting.

 

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