Turn On It, Tune Out, Drop In: April 2009

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Grab Yer Longboards

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:58 PM

WED
E WIND 5 TO 10 KT...W SWELL 5 FT AT 12 SECONDS.
THU
E WIND 5 KT...W SWELL 3 FT.
FRI
E WIND 10 TO 15 KT...SW SWELL 4 FT.

3 days of forecasted east winds...
And tiny windswell...
Or you can grovel...
On a shortboard...
Hop, wiggle, and bounce...
And call it fun...
Doesn't matter to me...
Stuck inland the rest of the week...
Did sneak out yesterday...
And found some fun ones...
In a protected horseshoe cove...
Only 4 others out...
And again for a late session today...
Unplanned, and empty when I paddled out...
I was quickly joined...
East winds as predicted...
Sloppy everywhere...
Except on the protected north side...
Of a prominent headland...
Fun peaks and walling lefts...
Waist to chest high...
On a single fin 9'8".

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Mamas, Don't Let Your Babies...

3 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 8:27 PM

NW WIND HOWLING. COMBINED SEAS 7 TO 8 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 7 SECONDS...IT WAS SMALL...3 FT, MAYBE 4 FT.

Grow up to be surfers...
They'll do things like...
Spending Earth Day...
Driving 100's of miles...
Looking for surf...
On a blown out coastline...
And then find it.

Friday, April 17, 2009

Good/Not Good

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 5:04 PM

W WIND 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FT. W SWELL 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

There was a comment on yesterday's post...

Something to the efect that...

"Tomorrow looks good"...

If by tomorrow you meant today...

It wasn't...

If by tomorrow you meant tomororow...

You might be right...

In the mean time...

I will post a gratuitous image...

Of semi-surf related content...

You're welcome.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Hoax

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:06 AM

S WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 10 SECONDS.

I knew it.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Stoke Crusher

2 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:37 AM

NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

For the last 4 days...

Light east winds on Friday...

8 foot and looking good...

Naturally, as we get closer...

Reality takes hold...

West wind...

Onshore...

Blow Me Down.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Wax & Wane

4 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 1:00 PM

NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 11 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

Four phases of a past moment of unsurfability...

Monday, April 13, 2009

Pointless

4 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 3:06 PM

W WIND 15 TO 20 KT...WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT. W SWELL 11 FT AT 12 SECONDS.

I was perusing a website that had beach scenes...

From the teens through the 60's...

And came across this shot from circa 1920 or so...

Look familiar?

Got me thinking...

How many perfect days reeled off that headland...

Between then and the first surfed wave there?

Did people even have an appreciations for what a good wave was?

Probably not, since the majority of beachgoers...

Look at shells or hunt sand dollars...

Or some other pointless beach activity...

And to be honest, aside from surfing...'

Aren't they all mostly pointless beach activities?

Thursday, April 09, 2009

Duck Dive V.3

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 10:40 AM

S WIND 20 TO 25 KT...BECOMING SW 10 TO 15 KT BY THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 5 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 15 SECONDS.

Black & White...

I don't know...

Seems so much more...

Black & White.

Wednesday, April 08, 2009

Duck Dive Version 2

4 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 11:51 AM

SW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 5 FT AT 17 SECONDS.

I wasn't happy with the first version...

It needed some changes.

Tuesday, April 07, 2009

Rad Duck Dive

1 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 9:03 AM

N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 7 FT AT 11 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 5 FT AT 11 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.

It was alot bigger yesterday...

Well overhead on the sets...

A lot of water moving around...

It was pretty messy at high tide...

And as the tide dropped...

The wind started to wail...

But then it laid off...

And it seemed surfable...

My first scratch to the outside...

Left me way outside...

Courtesy of a major rip...

Paddled back in for wave one...

A backside over the falls thrashing...

It got better from there...

But I got intermittently...

Bored, then terrorized...

Scratching for outside bombs...

Every 20-30 minutes...

So I moved inside...

And surfed the inbetweeners...

Which were still big...

Wedgy and dumping...

Alot of duck diving was involved...

Which is a funny thing...

Usually you get better with practice...

But with alot of duck diving...

I think I get careless...

The first 50 or so were perfect...

But as the duck dive fest went on...

I became more lackadaisical in my efforts...

And paid the price on a couple occassions.

Friday, April 03, 2009

"Present"ed

6 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 11:10 AM

NW WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT. COMBINED SEAS 17 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 11 SECONDS.

I wanted to like it...

But think that overall the flotsam distracted from the point...

I don't want to harp on what I see as the negatives...

I think Dan Malloy is a skilled surfer...

As a narrator, a bit of a wipe out...

The inflection should at least approach...

The variation of the surf itself...

Alex Knost in all of his hipster charm...

I can appreciate what he does on a surfboard...

He's unquestionably got a unique style...

But the rockstar/artist persona...

Better left on the cutting room floor...

The comedy skit? Yawn...

I guess if those are the main faults I find...

Then I can't really complain...

More Michel Junod, less AK...

The clip of Junod crosstepping...

Was perhaps the best 8 seconds of the film...

And his LB mastery should have got more time...

But he doesn't do spins, backward takeoffs...

And other trick maneuvers so no...

I thought Joel Tudor's take...

Could be the basis for a film in it's own right...

Alaia surfing is pretty cool...

But seemed to take over the film...

Dave Rastovich, Dane Reynolds & the rest...

Some good footage to be sure...

But for me the overall effect was subpar...

Not a bad film...

But the Present just didn't seem capture...

What it was professed to be seeking.

Thursday, April 02, 2009

Round One...Doc

5 comments Posted by Wave Farmer at 7:56 AM

W WIND 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT...BECOMING NW 30 TO 35 KT WITH GUSTS TO 40 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. COMBINED SEAS 12 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 12 SECONDS... BUILDING TO 16 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 10 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.

Don't mess with me Mole-Boy...

I feel bad about killing these little bastards...

But they wreak absolute havoc in my yard...

I tried the humane vibrating spike...

I think it attracted the damn things...

I've tried a few other methods...

All pretty much ineffective...

The steel jaws of death tho...

Very effective.

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