Monday, June 30, 2008

Truthiness


S WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING SW 10 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. SW SWELL 4 TO 5 FT AT 10 SECONDS... SUBSIDING TO 3 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
Had to steal Gaz' word...
After checking the cam...
Damn...
Looks Surfy.

Sunday, June 29, 2008

Amplification


S WIND 5 TO 10 KT...VEERING TO SW IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 9 SECONDS.
It was a hundred and fifty degrees in the valley...
[...it was only a hundred...]
So the bros piled in the Woody for a trip to the beach...
[...it was a Suburu, with the wife and kids...]
We went like 90 & got there in minutes...
[...cruise control at 60, 2 hour drive...]
On the beach we did brodies and tossed rooster tails of sand...
[...we parked in a state park lot with tourists...]
We charged over the dunes with our boards to find offshore perfection...
[...I lugged cooler, tent, board, wetsuits and more to the beach...]
We charged the perfect, hollow, lined up, DOH barrels for hours...
[...I paddled out into shifty, crossed up, backing off head high waves...]
Our wave count musta been in the hundreds...
[...I caught 2 good waves before the incoming tide flooded out the sandbar...]
In the tube, on the tip, off the lip, gaffs, sick airs...you name it, we did it...
[...take offs were sketchy, bumpy faces required careful stolid positioning...]
Exiting the water hot chicks and admiring grommets watched our every move...
[...my wife never looked up from her book as I came in...]

Friday, June 27, 2008

Fin Licking Good


N WIND 15 TO 20 KT...RISING TO 20 TO 25 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 5 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Something irresistable about hand-foiled flex fins...
Don't lick the trailing edge though...

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Beg, Borrow & Steal

NW WIND 10 KT. WIND WAVES 1 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

Doesn't seem to happen as much as when I was a kid...
But, I can remember all the requests...
Likely had alot to do with...
Being the last house on the way to the beach...
"Dude! Can I borrow your board?"
"Dude! Can I use your wax."
"Dude! Do you have any weed?"
"Dude! Can I have this beer?"
Sometimes it was "bro", or "guy"...
Followed by the inevitable request...
Then there was the occassional problem...
With the guy you'd lend these things to...
Who once they knew the location of said items...
Would occassionally help themselves...
Moving from the beg and borrow phase...
Into the stealing and thief phase.

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Three Rocks


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. GUSTS TO 20 KT IN THE SOUTHERN WATERS. WIND WAVES 2 FT. SW SWELL 5 FT AT 13 SECONDS.

Three Rocks, located near the mouth Salmon River…
Has a long history of native inhabitation and associated legends…
The Neschensney tribe told of a ship wrecked in the river long ago…
Tales of strange men, buried treasure and murder...
Bits of wreckage found in a shell mound…
Along with non-native 2 skeletons…
One of them 8-feet tall...
According to the legend the ship…
Described as "a monstrous canoe with wings"…
Entered the mouth of the Salmon River and wrecked…
The legend tells of three men, one a giant black…
Left behind to guard valuables from the wreck…
The others left on foot never heard from again...
The three lived among the Neschensney…
The African worshipped as a god…
But the native later killed all three men…
Their remains within the shell mound…
Reportedly show evidence of violent deaths…
One of the leg bones shattered…
A two inch bone spearhead found…
Lodged at the base of one skull…
A large stone embedded in the skull of another…
Other artifacts of the shell midden included…
A broken iron receptacle…
A whale bone war club…
And a crude stone pestle.
Two different galleons disappeared without a trace...
The San Antonio in 1603 and the San Francisco Xavier in 1707…
These galleons carried gold ingots and cotton cloth…
And the already famed cakes of white and yellow wax…
The San Francisco Xavier is thought to be the legendary "winged canoe"…
That wrecked at the base of Neakahnie cliffs…
Do the bones of the lost San Antonio lie…
Beneath the shifting sands of the Salmon River?

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Keeping On


N WIND 5 TO 10 KT...BACKING TO NW WITH GUSTS TO 15 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND WAVES 2 FT. SW SWELL 3 FT AT 15 SECONDS.
This south west won't quit...
Still looking like some fun...
With that long period ...
Turning a three foot swell...
Into head high waves...
[On occassion]

Friday, June 20, 2008

Proof



NW WIND 5 TO 10 KT...VEERING TO N AFTER MIDNIGHT. WIND WAVES 1 FT. SW SWELL 3 FT AT 15 SECONDS.
That I paddle a surfboard at least...
Gaz, over at RWIC snapped this last Tuesday...
Day 2 in my 5 day surf marathon...
Fun reeling lefts all morning long.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Beginner Again


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING S 5 TO 10 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT.WIND WAVES 1 FOOT. SW SWELL 5 FT AT 16 SECONDS.
I can only wish I had a Makaha backwash...
As an excuse for my own surfing ineptitude...
Got a rare four day long streak going...
Mixing up surfs on the Frye & the new Mabile 6' 8"...
A friend asked me how the twinzer was surfing...
I answered "Somewhere between Crappily & Shitttly"...
Not the board's fault...
Strictly user limitations I fear...
Definitely found a few fun sections...
But also spent alot of time stepping off the tail...
Or popping wheelies...
Which, on a surfboard...
Generally realizes poor results...
I still know I can surf...
It's just that recent experience...
Indicates otherwise.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Transition

How do you go from this:

N WIND 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 FT. NW SWELL 5 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
To this:
N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. SW SWELL 5 FT AT 18 SECONDS.
What's the criteria?
Where's the cutoff?
Not sayin' it couldn't happen...
Just sayin' I expect...
It'll be more of the same...
Because there is one constant...
Nuking afternoon winds...
Out of the north.
Anyhow...
Enough of my bitching about NOAA forecasts...
Hope all the surf Dad's...
Had a great Father's Day...
Surf or no surf.
I'm on it tomorrow regardless...
Of whether is it's a SW or a NW swell...
Or if it's 7 seconds or 18 seconds...
Of course, I'm hoping for 18...
Although those souths usually...
Miss us altogether.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

3rd World



N WIND 10 TO 15 KT...RISING TO 20 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT...BUILDING TO 5 FT. NW SWELL 4 FT AT 7 SECONDS.
Latest addition...
A Larry Mabile shape...
Third World Exotic 6' 8" quad...
I was so jazzed...
Surfing 18" waves yesterday...
That I pulled the trigger...
Off the rack...
Into the car...
And hopefully...
Into some waves...
Soon.

Thursday, June 12, 2008

[surf break gamma]


N WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. W SWELL 4 FT AT 10 SECONDS.
The coast cam from last night showed this lonely wave breaking outside...
It wasn't a barrel, lined up, nor did it look like it connected to the inside...
But I kept looking at it and it was somehow an essential wave for me...
Oregon can certainly stack waves up and through them at you in quantity...
But a lonely peak all by itself is often a fairly uncommon commodity.
Headed to the coast in the early am hoping for something...
I didn't have particularly high hopes but thought it'd work out...
Pulled up to [surf break alpha] to find a couple out on it...
One surfer was someone I knew and almost paddled out just to chat...
But the bumpiness, the softness and the half dozen guys suiting up...
To surf the single peaked bumpy softness dissuaded me from going...
Checked [surf break beta], it was better but not by much...
Watched and watched, a guy came in, walked up and muttered...
"Pretty mushy" with a frown and a soft shaking of the head, I fled...
Checked [surf breaks c, d, e, f & g], all looking fairly dismal...
Although [surf break g], through binoculars, and from above, looked doable...
Surfed [surf break gamma] for about 2 hours, pretty small but some fun ones...
All by my lonesome, some thigh high peelers connecting through to the shallows.

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

The Hunt


NW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. NW SWELL 9 FT AT 10 SECONDS... SUBSIDING TO 7 FT AT 9 SECONDS.

Swell's dropping, period's holding...
NW wind doesn't seem too bad...
Hoping I'll be in a similar spot tomorrow...
Paddling out for some 5 to 6 foot peelers...

Of course, it could all go to shit by morning...
A day in the life for Surf in Oregon.

(last second edit...tonight's development for tomorrow's enjoyment)

Monday, June 09, 2008

Messy, Messy, Messy


W WIND 20 TO 30 KTS. COMBINED SEAS 9 FT DOMINANT PERIOD 8 SECONDS.
Surfed some truly slopptacular waves this afternoon...
Watched for awhile, efforting to talk myself out of paddling out...
Then, the accursed sea, drew me from the warmth of my car...
Into a frothing maelstrom that is (on calmer days) a break...
Caught a handful of largely unsatisfying weird waveular bumps...
All whilst battling to stay sat up upon the polyurethane spear...
Due to massive gusting winds hurrying north to the low pressure...
The additional packing of my belly with salmon and ale at lunch...
Did not help, if anything, it made breathing diffcult...
And continually threatened to launch violently from my gullet...
But the waves were conquered and no chumming in the end...
The hot shower afterwards was nice.

Saturday, June 07, 2008

Half Way Promising


NW WIND 15 TO 20 KT...EASING TO 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 4 FT...SUBSIDING TO 2 FT. W SWELL 8 TO 10 FT AT 11 SECONDS...SUBSIDING TO 7 TO 8 FT AT 11 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.
I know there are waves out there...
I can read buoy forecasts...
I can check coast cams...
I can call friends for reports...
I can sleep in my car so...
I can do a early morn calm DPs...
It's just that the universe is against me.

Thursday, June 05, 2008

This Is June?


FRIDAY:
W WIND 20 TO 25 KT WITH GUSTS TO 30 KT.
WIND WAVES 5 FT.
W SWELL 16 FT AT 11 SECONDS.
BUILDING TO 19 FT AT 11 SECONDS IN THE AFTERNOON.
SHOWERS WITH SMALL HAIL.
First, it was a dank and dark (and seemingly endless) winter...
Then, it was a rainy and windy (and seemingly always onshore) spring...
Now, (though technically still spring) Mayvember followed by Junuary?
19 foot? With onshores? Showers with hail? Oh Joy!

Tuesday, June 03, 2008

Increase


W WIND 15 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 3 FT. W SWELL 6 FT AT 8 SECONDS.
Finally a little swell showing...
After a few days of flatness...
Although, I still caught some...
Ripples on the 10' 6".

Monday, June 02, 2008

Mini School


SW WIND 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT. SW SWELL 3 FT AT 15 SECONDS.
It's been small...
Very, very small...
But is building...
Building, building, building...
Then, hopefully...
I'll go surfing...
Surfing, surfing, surfing...
Because today...
I didn't even put...
My board in the car...
And it was flat...
Flatter than flat flat.